“It’s about that big.”
“That’s HUGE.”
“Well, once you taste it, it goes quick.”
Heading to the George Town airport to hop a flight back to New York, I thought back to this exchange. Talk dessert to me, and I’ll never forget it.
The conversation was with a Nassuvian describing his favorite Bahamian sweet, the national dessert known as guava duff. But it could have just as easily been about the Bahamas itself.
The Bahamas are big. Huge even. As in 700 islands, divvied into 14 regions. While both of the main islands, Grand Bahama or New Providence, are fine intros to the Bahamian way, if that’s as far as you go, you haven’t seen much at all. The richest sights are in the Family Islands, called such because every local has roots there. These 12 regions are also referred to as the Out Islands. My travels took me from the outside in, starting with Eleuthera and ending with The Exumas.
Photo: Lone Tree – Harbour Island, Chrystal Parker
ELEUTHERA: HARBOUR ISLAND NORTH ELEUTHERA
Briland, as it’s known locally, looks like a Nantucket nabe reimagined on a 3.5 x 1.5 mile cutout. Just an hour by plane from Miami, it’s a chic retreat where celebrities and civilians with private planes unwind. Still, there’s no pretension, but a warmness that reminds you that strangers are only friends you haven’t yet met. Walking along the pink sand beaches or past the colorful bungalows, you are just as likely to be invited to church as you are to have a goombay smash, a potent rum drink, at JJ’s Cocktail Lounge.
Lure of the Landing
The bar and restaurant at this 12-room boutique respite draws an international crowd. The property’s logo is the Afroed-silhouette of the owner’s mom–—the first Miss Bahamas—and appears on T-shirts, totes, and the label for the house wine and spirits. Sit at the bar for predinner cocktails made with Afro Head rum. Angus tenderloin with sweet garlic butter or the spicy crab capellini are consistently popular entree choices. The pudding-like Belgian chocolate cake is made for sharing. Not made for sharing: Afro Head tiramisu. 242.333.2707 / 2740. harbourislandlanding.com
Cocktails & Conversation
The ritual cocktail hour for guests of The Dunmore begins at 6:30 p.m. and I was motioned into the library to join others for conversation and the signature Rooster, a blend of papaya and pineapple juices mixed with bourbon. I went a little early for a tour of the 16-unit hotel (the ocean front Aqua North and Aqua South cottages get the highest marks), which reopened in December 2010. Sade, Andy Garcia, Lenny Kravitz, and the Ralph Lauren clan are among the household names who have been entertained at the property. 242.333.2200. dunmorebeach.com
Ready To Rock
At Rock House’s restaurant, the daily seafood special gives fresh-to-death new meaning because the trip from ocean to plate is mere hours. Depending on the season, expect seared tuna steak atop wasabi cream, or grilled mahimahi with caramelized onions. Last seating is at 8:30p.m. In high season, ressies are often booked four weeks in advance. However, a couple of days advance notice will usually guarantee a terrace table with glorious views of sunsets over the bay. 242.333.2053. rockhousebahamas.com
THE EXUMAS
What can’t be escaped is the blue of it all. The waters surrounding the 365-island chain are a kaleidoscope of azure, cobalt, ultramarine, and all shades in between. “Exuma blues” is what it’s called. Great Exuma is your starting point for yachting, fishing, and diving excursions. Being in, or near, the water here will become your obsession.
Grand Isle Resort & Spa
The new villas at Grand Isle Resort & Spa are made for groups. The two-level Bahia Mar villa is sizeable enough for an intimate destination birthday party. Each villa has a golf cart for running errands—like a run to the nearby liquor store. A concierge can arrange for a private chef on days you don’t eat at the resort’s restaurant, Palapas Bar and Grill. On the powdery Emerald Bay Beach you’ll share sunscreen with 30- somethings from France, the UK and Canada. The infinity pool allegedly shuts down at 9 p.m., but night swims continue as late as 11 p.m. Unless there’s a conflict with a beach bonfire—or an impromptu after-hours party in the penthouse. 214.393.2841 | 242.358.5000. grandisleresort.com
Island Invasion
It’s just a five-minute boat ride to Stocking Island, home to beach grill Chat N’ Chill, a de rigueur stop for boaters and urbanites who find themselves around the Exuma way. For laying out and getting sun, it’s a BYO-beach-accessories type of place. Even beyond the Sunday pig roast, you’ll find an ample supply of entertainment, food, and drinks already in place. A faux-hawked Canadian boater—who has been making annual stops for the last decade—steered me toward the thyme-flecked grilled chicken. A tanned, raspy-voiced cohort chimed in with a vote for the grilled fish. Between the countless cups of goombay smash and merrymaking boaters docked there for the day, it was a more-than-all-right way to spend an afternoon. 242.336.2700. chatnchill.com
Exuma Cays
Barratarre Dock was the 8 a.m. departure point for a day-long boat tour of Exuma Cays (pronounced “keys”). Captain Andrew and his assistant from 4Cs Adventures took our group of seven on an exploration of the 100-mile stretch of isles. The trip is a cross between a TMZ celebrity home tour and an aquatic petting zoo. Over the roar of the motor, the Captain called out private islands owned by Tim McGraw and Faith Hill. Then there was the überexclusive Musha Cay, the 700-acre island owned by magician David Copperfield (available to you for a mere $37,500/night). Near Big Major Cay, shipmates squealed in delight more than the pigs who swam out to the boat to eat the bread scraps tossed into the water. At Compass Cay, we swam with nurse sharks who lazily flopped onto the wooden dock to be hand-fed mahimahi morsels. Tour is $160 per person, cash only. 242.464.1720 | 242.345.2352. exumawatertours.com
Photos: Grand Isle Resort & Spa, Jennifer & Guy Miller; Stocking Island signs, Chrystal Parker
UPTOWN MINI GUIDE TO THE BAHAMAS
BAHAMIAN LEXICON
Duff – (n.) Short for guava duff , a steamed dessert made with guava
Kalik – (n.) Brand of omnipresent, homegrown beer
Leaded – (adj.) With alcohol, as in mixed drinks
Nassuvian – Someone from Nassau; someone who lives in Nassau
Rush – (v.) Dancing to Junkanoo music
Shack –(n.) Makeshift backyard structure behind Bahamian homes where Junkanoo costumes are built in secrecy
Unleaded – (adj.) Without alcohol, as in mixed drinks
HARBOUR HANGING
Stay: Valentines Resort & Marina offers modern condo-style lodging for a short stay or a near recession-proof investment property. 242.333.2142.
Getting Around: On foot or rent a golf cart. Try Summer Boyz Golf Cart Rentals. 242.551.3648. summerboyzrentals@gmail.com
Kodak Moment: Next to Lone Tree on the island’s eastern sand flats.
La Vida Local: Arthur’s Bakery for morning pastries, Dunmore Deli for breakfast or brunch, Queen Conch for a lunch of chunky conch salad.
EXUMA EXPRESS
La Vida Local: Exuma Point (for weekend-only brunch), Honey Dew, Santana’s, and Cheater’s.
Kodak Moment: Next to the cluster of signs near Chat ‘N’ Chill. Pose with the sharks at Compass Cay or the iguanas at Allan’s Cay during an Exuma Cays tour.
NASSAU NECESSITIES
Stay: The Reef Atlantis. 888.877.7525.
Getting Around: Taxi service with Romeo’s Executive Limousine Service. 242.363.4728
La Vida Local: Frankie Gone Bananas, Seafood Haven, Castaways
Taste of Home: Mesa Grill, Nobu, Jamba Juice
Off the Beaten Path: Educulture Junkanoo museum, day trip to Blue Lagoon
