Many first-time visitors to baja mar, or “shallow sea”, as the Spaniards referred to the 700 islands and cays that make up the Bahamas, typically steer towards Nassau or Paradise Island. With four different cruise lines anchoring at Prince George Dock at any given time, a noon stroll down Bay Street or into the Straw Market can be as frenzied as a rush hour step through midtown Manhattan. In contrast, the city of Freeport offers a slower, more intimate charm. Remarkably, Freeportonians can truthfully boast that everyone knows everyone, which is quite a feat for a city with a population close to 50,000!
Go Grand
Formerly known as Our Lucaya Beach & Golf Resort, the Grand Lucayan, dates back to 1998, and is the island’s resident AAA fourdiamond star accomodation. Just a 10-minute cab ride from the airport, the retreat promises a “classic Bahamian experience.” From traditional culinary fare like conch fritters or local rums in onsite restaurants and bars, to Junkanoo performances, where revelers festively round the property playing goatskin drums, horns and cowbells, there are lots of local touches. At over 500 rooms, the resort is grand but not overwhelming. The rooms and suites all feature scenic ocean, island or marina views, ranging from luxuriously romantic to cozy family-size. For added privacy, the Ocean Lanai Suites come with two rooms, two full baths and a semi-private balcony or patio. Prefer to feel the powdery sand underneath your feet while keeping company with the moon? Simply stroll the resort’s guests-only Lucaya Beach. Understandably, Grand Lucayan is popular for destination weddings and honeymoons.
Natural High
Nature adventurists and beach fanatics alike flock to the 40-acre Lucayan National Park, about 25 miles east of Freeport, to kayak, explore underwater limestone caves, and take in the glorious unspoiled beach. Do take the Jeep safari with Grand Bahama Nature Tours through the island’s natural yellow pine forest to reach the park. (Tip: Don’t be alarmed by the smoldering forest fires. They are the norm and are actually integral to preserving the pine trees.)
Once there, elevated walkways guide visitors through the mangrove swamp to pristine Gold Rock Beach. (Tip: Get to the beach before 11 a.m. to have it almost to yourself). Kayaking is a great way to explore the bounty of flora and fauna. Home to one of the most extensive underwater cave systems on Earth, Lucayan is a fave among experienced divers. But the average visitor can descend stairs into at least two of the caves: Ben’s and Burial Mound, a Lucayan Indian gravesite with preserved remains found in a water-filled cavern near its entrance.
Not So Secret Garden
The Garden of the Groves is another must for nature seekers. Trails wind through lush vegetation and cascading waterfalls, culminating at a magnificent labyrinth. The consecrated chapel overlooking the gardens is a choice spot for weddings, prayer and meditation. In The Bag Across the street from the Grand Lucayan sits Port Lucaya Marketplace & Marina, a five-acre open-air shopping and entertainment center overlooking Bell Channel Bay featuring elegant boutiques, duty-free shops, restaurants and bars. Purchase designer wares and impressive silver jewelry at the marketplace. Scoop up handcrafted straw and wood souvenirs at the Bahamas Arts & Crafts Straw Market. (Tip: Count Basie Square, which also attracts locals, regularly pops with live music, Junkanoo festivities, karaoke or a deejay.)
Brew On
Founded in 2007, the Bahamian Brewery is relatively new to the island. For $15 per person, tour through the 25-step process from malt to beer and finish it off by sampling one of the five Bahamian beers and Triple B, a non-alcoholic malt drink. (Tip: Bahamians love Bushcrack, a rather smooth malt liquor known for its kick, named for the popular saying, “Bushcrack, man gone!” used when you’re trying to avoid someone.)