The one-time Southeast Asian British colony formerly known as Burma is slowly shedding its totalitarian leanings and settling into its new, more open identity as Myanmar. And Yangon, the country’s largest city— with its ancient Buddhist temples, burgeoning culinary scene and charming people—has quickly become the world traveler’s must-visit locale.
Fly Guy
Getting amped for an 18-hour journey from New York isn’t hard when flying business class on Cathay Pacific Airways (cathaypacific.com). With storage, shoe locker, an ottoman, ample in-flight entertainment (including a port for your own device) and a full flat bed, it’s almost a plush NYC studio! The Wing First Class Lounge at Hong Kong International Airport is even more swank, especially when enjoying a meal at The Haven (Asian and western dishes), a private shower in one of the five cabanas or its 12 shower suites, and relaxing on one of the day beds. Afterwards, I was ready for my Dragonair (dragonair.com) connecting flight to Myanmar.
High Living
Yangon hotels are sparse (with so many people visiting, the city is rushing to increase supply) so make reservations well in advance. After the 45-minute drive from Yangon International Airport to the Sule Shangri-la (shangri-la.com/yangon/traders; formerly the The Traders Hotel), I stopped in the The Peacock Lounge in the hotel’s grandiose atrium (Tip: High tea is pretty cool). My one-bedroom, luxury flat with a living room, dining area, study and great WiFi was thankfully high enough that I could awake each day to the ancient pagoda (temple) in the distance.
Yangon Yum
A typical Burmese meal comes with steamed rice, fish, meat, vegetables and soup all at once, no coursing. (Tip: Use your fingers to roll the rice into a small ball and dip into the dishes; but Burmese tradition frowns on eating with the left hand because its function is for cleaning—think about it). The city’s unique mix of Burmese, Chinese, Indian and British influences makes for some intrguing dining (the food scene is still developing). Do try dinner at the Summer Palace, the hotel’s Cantonese spot (dim sum and fresh fish, thank you)… Off property, grab lunch at Feel Myanmar (feelrestaurant.com) for (thoughtful) faster food… West of Sule Pagoda Road, find Burmese food stalls and fresh fruit in Chinatown. Expats and natives alike love the fun high/ low mix of traditional Burmese, along with Lao, Cambodian and Vietnamese options, at Monsoon (monsoonmyanmar.com) on Thinbyu Road. (Tip: Post-dinner, head next door to Pomelo [pomeloyangon.com] for fair-trade jewelry, textiles, clothes, rugs (I grabbed one) and other beautiful minutiae produced by citizens on the fringe of Yangon society.)
Temple Trek
With its scurry of pedestrians, overcrowded, leaning buses, bikes carrying livestock and exhaust-spewing cars, the hotel’s convenient downtown locale is quite cinematic. Stroll to the Sule Pagoda, remove your shoes (a must) and marvel at the over 2,000-year-old Buddhist temple. Astrology is very important and is reportedly how the new capital, Naypyidaw, was selected. My own reading on Sule Pagoda Road was fun and slightly insightful. (Tip: Allot at least 20 minutes since they go deep.) Nearby is the 2,500 year-old Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon’s most famous and the world’s oldest. Reportedly housing strands of Buddha’s hair and other holy relics, it’s covered in gold and diamonds and multitudes of worshippers descend on the site daily. (Tip: Wear pants, or knee length shorts, and t-shirt sleeves should come to your elbows.)
Wanderlust
Roaming Yangon’s streets is best. Find great sandals, clothes, and jewelry at Bogyoke Aung San Market…Burma’s art, history and culture more your speed? Pop into the National Museum of Myanmar (66/74 Pyay Road)… Navigate the city in a bus straight out of The Darjeeling Limited courtesy of Elephant Coach (asiaelephantcoach.com) and deepen the Wes Anderson vibe by dropping into The Strand, a close ringer in vibe for the fictional auberge of his recent The Grand Budapest Hotel. This turn of the century marvel is pretty much the same building legendary hoteliers The Sarkies Brothers built in 1901. A drink at the bar easily conjures thoughts of the royals and wealthy who’ve roamed the halls of the three story Victorian structure (President Obama and Mick Jagger have visited).
It Takes A…
I hopped aboard the ferry for a two-hour sail to Twante Township, which is known for its artisan pottery. After a 40-minute bumpy ride into the center of the village, I arrived at the Shwesandaw Pagoda, which was gorgeous, but not as impressive as the people walking, talking and working—sans chargers and status updates. This simplicity was a refreshing contrast to the urban ridiculousness we often allow to consume us.
-By Isoul Harris