By Andre George
For the discerning gentleman, a custom bespoke suit is much like a calling card. In a sense, it’s an actualized statement of character, an invitation of sorts into his world of self-defined living and luxury. As fashion trends lead the less inclined towards the pastures of homogeneous reproduction, the elite group of men whom exist outside of this realm traverse an entirely different terrain. In the same way late 19th-century sidekicks rode alongside their partners—cavalier cowboys, so rides the Custom Clothier.
More than a tailor or cutter, a custom clothier is your personal aficionado of style and presentation—a maestro of fabrics and art. I say art, because that is the only way to describe the full breadth of their capabilities. They are savants who dare to use their gifts for good—agent provocateurs to all things which would dare to stand in the way of one of the single greatest accoutrements to express sophistication and power—the bespoke suit. These artisans work tirelessly to help us to both discover and unlock our personal style in a way that challenges preconceived notions and expectations. Take a moment and imagine the possibilities. A man of substance and influence, with a magisterial craftsman beside him is a formidable pairing. One which often boasts symphonic results—this is the beauty of synergy. And like all things, it’s a process. The schematics which are drafted to bring together a man and his suit are unique. It’s exclusive to them—to him. This is bespoke.
Whether you’re a casual suit wearer, new to the lifestyle or have an expansive collection that’d make members of the original “Rat Pack” jealous, the bespoke suit speaks an entirely different language. Bespoke differs from off-rack or made-to-measure suits in a number of ways. Every nuance is taken into consideration in order to deliver an unparalleled masterpiece of fabric and function. Sonnets could be written to pay homage to the process, yet it would still fall short of illuminating the process from inquiry to finished product. Thus, I have found in such discussions it’s always best to garner knowledge from the superstars themselves. Fortunately, I made successful contact with bespoke wizard extraordinaire—Peter Frew of Archangelo Sartorial in Brooklyn. Ever so gracious, he took a few moments out of his backlogged schedule to share some tidbits on bespoke suits and how the process works.
Uptown: It seems more professionals are entering into the bespoke market, what do you attribute to this trend?
Frew: Fashion recycles… We’re now seeing a resurgence of the suit even for casual occasions. Bespoke is the high-end of this market. It is once again (the suit) a staple item which professionals use to make statements. And I expect this trend to continue.
Uptown: What’s the most important piece of the clothier/client relationship?
Frew: Communication, Communication, Communication. If clients aren’t open or have trouble communicating, it slows down the whole process. It’s up to me to walk them through this, but the better the communication, the smoother things will go and they’ll be more satisfied with the end result.
Uptown: Where do you find your inspiration?
Frew: Culture. Different lifestyles. Sometimes it’s just taking what my clients share and thinking about how I can create awe. Say they need the suit for an award show or premiere—I think, what will give it an awe factor. It has to fit the need. If the suit is for a party, I think the same thing. What will make this suit demand attention in that environment? This is what inspires me.
Uptown: What, if any, misconceptions are there about the bespoke suit?
Frew: The cost involved. True bespoke uses superior materials which gives the suit more durability and wear. Bespoke is entirely custom and takes things into account like a client’s body mechanics and natural movements. There really is no other.
Uptown: How do you ensure each client’s personal style is reflected accurately in each bespoke suit?
Frew: It’s the process. I have a 5 step process which is my full proof way to exceed my clients’ expectations. I start with an initial consultation and follow it with 4 additional sittings. This gives the client and I plenty of opportunity to build the suit to their image.
Uptown: How long does it take from start-to-finish to complete a bespoke suit?
Frewn: Typically, you’re looking at a 10-12 week process. Each suit takes 70-80 man hours to complete.
Uptown: Any tips on entering into the bespoke market for first time clients?
Frew: Absolutely! First thing to keep in mind for prospective clients is that they should understand the difference between made-to-measure and true bespoke before commissioning any work. Bespoke is entirely custom and there are no short cuts or pre-measurements. Also, do plenty of research. I would also recommend clients to check out a few houses (bespoke tailors) before settling on one. Finding a house that you’re comfortable with will benefit them in the end.
André George is a Lifestyle Influencer and Brand Strategist. Follow him on Twitter/Instagram/Tumblr @TheAndreGeorge