After the roughly 15-hour flight on South African Airways from JFK to Johannesburg’s O.R. Tambo International Airport, named for the one-time African National Congress president, The Maslow, a hotel in the Sandton area of Joburg, was a welcome respite. Nelson Mandela Square, anchored by a nearly 20-foot statue of its namesake, was the first stop. South Africans were out in force, eating, shopping and, at that time, mourning the loss of their beloved leader. Back at The Maslow, which is quite jazzy for a business hotel (think Vegas or Studio 54-esque), the Lacuna Bistro and Bar for drinks, dinner and more drinks was fantastic. Not wanting the night to end, my group and I popped into nearby nightspot News Cafe for more cocktails and checked out the scene.
After a night of spirited revelry, the visit to the Apartheid Museum the next morning sobered us all. Remember, it was only twenty years ago that apartheid ended. Just before entering the grounds, there is a Mandela panel showing his many faces and hailing him as “Comrade. Leader. Prisoner. Negotiator. Statesman.” but the museum reaches far deeper. Telling South Africa’s complex story is the aim and apartheid is at the crux of the compelling narrative. Visitors enter either through the Blankes (Whites) or Nie-Blankes (Non-Whites) side and are confronted with blow-ups of the pass books (identity cards) that black South Africans were forced to carry and show upon demand, as well as more signs clearly announcing the ideology that “The White man is the master in South Africa…”
Refreshingly, homage is paid to the Bushmen, the country’s first known people, but it’s the museum’s unflinching look at the horrors of apartheid that sets the tone. On permanent exhibit is one of the enormous tanks that rolled into townships to literally squash those who stood up for freedom. Stephen Biko, Albertina “Mama” Sisulu and other freedom fighters are also celebrated, as well as South Africa’s LGBT community. The Apartheid Museum is undoubtedly one of the top museums in the world.
After an emotional visit to Mandela’s home, where people of all walks came to pay their respects, we strolled through the Rosebank African Craft Market before returning to The Maslow’s Africology for indulgent spa treatments. Dinner at The Butcher Shop & Grill, back at Mandela Square, featuring a carnivore’s feast, including boerewors, the nation’s prized traditional sausage dish (meat-shy folks like me opted for tasty fish options, like the area’s beloved kingklip, or salads), closed out the Johannesburg stay.
Next, it was road trip time. After traveling roughly two hours to Sun City, the nation’s Las Vegas of sorts, the coach pulled into The Palace of the Lost City, the resort’s five-star gem and Indiana Jones definitely came to mind. To mellow out, we took on the on-site maze and were rewarded with a beer tasting at the new microbrewery. Africa is known the world over for its wildlife and Sun City delivers. Nearby Pilanesberg Game Reserve offers family-friendly safaris where the king of the jungle often makes an appearance. Bad weather disrupted an intended zip line course but (the preferred) in-room massages soothed the blow. The games at the arcade are big fun but for the legit high rollers the mega-casino is a must. Foodies will rejoice at Calabash (Sun City Hotel) and other property restos (Crystal Court’s buffet at Palace of the Lost City is surreal). With extreme sensory overload, it’s easy to see why Sun City has hosted superstar celebs like Oprah.
Continuing on this route of the African Sun leg of the journey, we hopped a flight to Cape Town, the nation’s cosmo cool city located in the Western Cape. The Table Bay Hotel in the heart of the posh Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, where Mandela himself was on hand when it opened in 1997 and Michael Jackson once rested his head, offered a pastry lesson with Chef Bhupender Kumar upon arrival. While dining at the elegant Constantia Glen, in Constantia, Cape Town’s beautiful wine country that night, I could spot the next day’s treat. Billed as “Our African Wonder,” Table Mountain, one of the newest seven natural wonders of the world, is virtually unrivaled. Ascending to the top by cable car is an experience in itself, although more adventurous types choose to hike it.
With divine views of Cape Town and the deep azure of the surrounding ocean, Table Mountain is perfect for nature walking and self-reflection. Pay a visit to Abaphumeleli Home of Safety—founded by Evelyn Makasi for a tough dose of reality. It serves orphans and abandoned children in rough Khayelitsha, which is located in the Cape Flats and is the country’s largest and fastest growing township.
Hip Victoria Road in Camps Bay—with a beach, trendy eateries and retail shops, is the city’s equivalent to South Beach. Back at the hotel, we enjoyed the fab opening of Table Bay’s Camissa Brasserie & Wine Room where spirits flowed and the local social set shined. The fun vibe continued at Orphanage Cocktail Emporium which specializes in innovative concoctions like the Jammy Dodger, with El Jimador, and Orphanage Mojito, with mandarininfused rum. Its truffle chips, french fries with white truffle oil, are alone worth a visit to the country. On Long Street, where party buses and spirited patrons easily brought Bourbon Street to mind, the celebration went into overdrive. So much so that making an early morning flight to Zambia was truly a struggle.
With its open land and less developed terrain in its former capital city Livingstone, Zambia is more of what outsiders who have been fed one image of the continent and have never visited expect. Reaching The Royal Livingstone Hotel was old world retro; it involved boarding a boat á la The African Queen. Wildlife greeted us upon arrival—zebras, giraffes and monkeys casually (and safely) roam the grounds. British in taste and sensibility, the hotel was sophisticated, comfy and fit for VIPs (guests even get their very own butler!) Former President Clinton is a recent visitor.
Still, it’s the mighty Victoria Falls, as the world knows it, that’s the main draw. Shared by Zimbabwe and Zambia, Mosi-oa-Tunya, as it is officially named, is about twice as high as Niagara Falls and is, in a word, majestic. At the private Livingstone Island, famous for its Devil’s Pool, which brings strong swimmers dangerously close to the edge of the falls, the views, as Blair Underwood and his family experienced during their trip, are even more stunning.
As delightful as the spa treatment overlooking the Zambezi River in the gazebo back at the hotel was, dinner onboard The Royal Livingstone Express train took the prize. Venturing to the Zimbabwe Zambia border was indeed an adventure but topping it off with five-star dining was truly a delight. The only thing that kinged that experience was microlighting (think a paragliding plane with just a pilot and you) over Mosi-oa-Tunya and taking in all its magnificence while high in the air.
By the time I cozily settled into business class on South African Airways for the long journey back to the U.S., I felt so blessed and humbled. Reflecting on the journey, even now, I still pinch myself. From South Africa to Zambia and back, the world has never felt more divine.