by Angela Bronner Helm | Photography by Matt Bell
Some of my most savvy, well-traveled pals count Panama as their prime pastime paradise, and can effortlessly tick off the reasons why:
Getting there is a breeze. The weather is a heavenly 82–90 degrees: year round. Their currency, the U.S. dollar, stretches like Spandex. (A local taxi will chauffeur you around the capital for less than $5.) And though Spanish is Panama’s official language, English is ubiquitous. The nightlife is beyond cosmopolitan, and the people—a diverse mix of Caribbean-Spanish, African and indigenous cultures— are friendly and beautiful.
Rated the #1 Destination for 2012 by the The New York Times, Panama is virtually peerless in its charms. The country’s namesake capital and largest city is both a sultry metropolis with soaring skyscrapers and world-famous salsa clubs, as well as a hyperdiverse land of lush rain forests and ancient ruins. Neither overwrought nor overpriced, Panama maintains a pretty pluralism that any wanderluster would envy. Check out our list of can’t-miss offerings from a country that just may have it all.
*Getting There: Copa Airlines is the national carrier of Panama, operating nonstop flights in 29 countries in North, South, and Central America. Founded in 1947, Copa flies nonstop to Panama City (PTY) from major U.S. cities including Miami, Washington, D.C., Los Angeles, New York, Chicago and Las Vegas. copaair.com
Take Me to the Bridge
Did you know that Panama is the one place on earth where you can swim two oceans in a day? The narrow landmass that is the Isthmus of Panama rose from the sea millions of years ago, connecting North and South America and dividing the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. You can learn all this and more at the BioMuseo (Biodiversity Museum), which aims to show the world why Panama is literally a bridge between continents, as well as highlight the country’s importance to the world’s natural wealth and evolution. The Seussical-shaped Frank Gehry–designed space opens Spring in 2013, but until then, group hard-hat tours in English are available. 507.314.0097. biomuseo.org
Above: The photographer and writer after a day of sweet loafing on one of the many islands of San Blas.
Go Native
Interested in hanging out on a beautiful beach that feels like your own private island? Then plan a day trip to San Blas. Set about two and a half hours outside of Panama City, this archipelago of about 378 islands is mainly inhabited by the Kuna Yel, one of seven officially recognized tribes in Panama. To get to San Blas, pack your passport (you’ll need it for entrance) and charter a boat to any one of the islands—some of which are no larger than a city block; others require an all-terrain vehicle. Bring along a picnic basket for lunch or have one of the boatmen catch a spiny lobster for about $5. (For a few extra bucks, they’ll even prepare it for you.) Then, laze about, snorkel or swim in the crystal blue waters. Before you leave, be sure to stop at a vendor and check out the blouses emblazoned with brightly colored, intricate patterns called molas, created by the talented Kuna women.
For another, equally amazing indigenous experience, journey to Embera Village, home of the Embera tribe. Unlike the Kuna Yel’s small islands, Embera’s home is the rain forest in several villages along the Chagres River. Ride in a motorized dug-out canoe, see monkeys high up in trees, swim under a waterfall or get a tattoo made from the juice of berries. (It will last for weeks!) One can also find the most delectable fried fish this side of heaven, served in a banana leaf and garnished with a flower. For fl at rates to San Blas or Embera Village, call Truly Panama Tours and ask for Venicio “Benny” Wilson when booking. 507.398.0541. trulypanama.com
Above: One of the islands of San Blas, anchored on the Caribbean (Atlantic) side of Panama
Keep the Faith
No matter your religion or spiritual belief, you owe it to yourself to experience the Bahá’í Temple. Perched atop a cliff in Panama City, the white domed house of worship is one of only seven in the world, roughly one for each continent. The round, open temple has no walls or corners and is encircled by manicured gardens with sweeping views of the city below. The Bahá’í meet every Sunday; because they believe in the unity of all faiths, scriptures are read from many holy books including the Bible, Qur’an and Torah. bahai.org
Above: The interior of Panama City’s Baha’i Temple, a nine-sided open space, set high atop a hill.
Prawn Shop
Opening at 5 a.m. daily, Panama City’s Seafood Market is an open-air wonder packed with natives, tourists and vendors alike, along with rows and rows of bustling stalls filled with massive fresh prawns, crab and pulpo (octopus), all of which can be steamed onsite. There’s also a restaurant on the second floor that prepares seafood dishes including fried whole fish and shrimp stews with heaping sides of rice and beans, fried green plantains and cerveza (beer)! Like many South American countries, ceviche—chunks of raw fish marinated in lime juice, chili sauce and raw onion—is a national delicacy, and very popular in Central and South America. The fish market is the one place you can try this dish 99 ways!
Above: The fruit of the fish market: ceviche and shrimp!
A Man. A Plan. A Canal. Panama.
The above phrase, also known as a palindrome (the same spelled forward and backward), references one of the country’s most famous landmarks. Built and controlled by the United States for almost 75 years, the 48-mile-long Panama Canal allows large vessels quick passage between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. The best way to see the canal is at the Miraflores Visitors Center, a three-story observation deck (and restaurant) where visitors have a bird’s-eye view of the huge barges sailing into the locks before continuing on to the ocean. Be sure to check out the museum, which offers a sobering history of how men from all over the globe died to create this eighth wonder of the world. pancanal.com/eng
Above: The Embera people live in the rainforest along the Chagres River.
Vintage City
Just a stone’s throw from towering downtown Panama City lies Casco Viejo—the old city. Founded in 1673, this unique area is popular with artists and is where loosed cats keep watch over cobbled streets and settlements stand tall alongside new hotels and bars.
There are endless delights to be found in Casco Viejo, including town squares (excellent to dance in and around), centuries-old churches, and quirky shops selling everything from salted caramel gelato to Panama hats. Coffeeshops and tapas restaurants are plentiful (Rene’s is a must, if only for the tres leches cake), and be sure to visit famous landmarks such as Presidential Palace and the National Theater.
One of the neighborhood’s true jewels is the Tántalo Hotel Kitchen & Rooftop. Taking its name from the Greek god Tantalus (think tantalizing), Tántalo seeks to excite your senses, from sleek, modern furniture to romantic wraparound balconies. Hotelier Matt Blesso, known for developing eco-friendly and sustainable luxury properties, is insistent upon supporting local art: Each of the boutique hotel’s 12 rooms is decorated by a Panamanian artist in a distinct style and medium, from photography to graffiti. Rotating exhibits also appear in the common areas.
Tántalo Kitchen, which is open to the public, offers a robust, reasonably priced and internationally tinged menu created by Panamanian chef Pierre DeJanon. Take a seat at one of the bar tables (made with wood from the Panama Canal), and enjoy standout appetizers such as balsamic eggplant with cashew/basil pesto, the Tántalo octopus and Tia Michelle’s jumbo shrimp with Cajun butter sauce. Top off your evening at Encima, Tantalo’s rooftop bar—indeed the only rooftop bar in Panama City— and sip a “Blondie Mary” (which replaces the classic with passion fruit juice) while taking in the panoramic vistas and enchanting music.
Rates from $129–$169 from June–Nov.; $159–$219, Dec.–May. 507.262.4030. tantalohotel.com
Above: A view of the skyscrapers of downtown Panama from Casco Viejo.
