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Red Light Love

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by Angela Bronner Helm

Red Light LoveAmsterdam will dazzle your senses–sight, taste, touch, smell, and sound. It’s an old, cobblestoned town with a long tradition of tolerance, openness, and beauty–from the way the city seems to have arisen from its canals, to the Dutch Masters’ grand canvases. It’s New York City meets the old country condensed–what Mick Jagger deemed the “world’s smallest metropolis.”

Although this was not our official honeymoon, my husband and I left the kids at home and decided to experience something unique and meaningful together. Sure, Paris is romantic, Tuscany is picturesque, and Mykonos is sexy, but if you’re a lover of history, and a little edgy, Amsterdam can be the perfect place to wed and honeymoon.

At Amsterdam’s center is the aptly-named Centraal Station, reached directly by train from Schiphol airport. One of the many tram lines from Centraal can get you anywhere in the city within 20 minutes. Many get around by bicycle (watch out! is all I can say), by foot, or even by boat, as water is as prevalent as pavement here. The city is divided into many neighborhoods, each with its own flavor, from the densely packed, intellectually-leaning Spui, to the infamous Red Light district, where prostitution is open and legal.

The Euro is the currency and many speak English here. There is so much to see in Amsterdam that another trip may be in order. Here are our top recommendations for a sexy, savvy twosome.

SEE: One of the most highly visited and yet somber stops in Amsterdam is the Anne Frank House, the narrow home where a young Jewish girl hid during Nazi-occupied Amsterdam during WWII. Her book, The Diary of Anne Frank, has been read by millions worldwide. annefrank.org

Rijksmuseum is the largest museum in the Netherlands. It has been standing since 1876, and contains many of the Dutch Masters such as Rembrandt and Vermeer, along with sculpture, Asian art and prints. rijksmuseum.nl

The Van Gogh Museum showcases the trajectory of Vincent Van Gogh’s life, from his early work, to his most significant pieces including Sunflowers. To view such beauty up close will leave you literally breathless. vangoghmuseum.nl

Red Light Love2EAT: Located on the top floor of the shopping center ‘Kalvertoren,’ Blue is a chic, modern, all white bistro and bar with a breathtaking view of the city. The authentic Dutch meat pie, goes great with fries, Heineken, and whole mustard. blue-amsterdam.nl

Dropped in the middle of Frankendael Park, Merkelbach sits in the garden of a former Coach house dating back to 1650. The French- Mediterranean menu provides the perfect aphrodisiac for one of the most romantic settings in the city. huizefrankendael.nl

If comfort food is what you crave, take a trip to the DePijp neighborhood. Spang Makandra is always crowded and for good reason–the Javenese-Surinamese food there is delicious, authentic and reasonable. (spangmakandra.nl) And since you’re in DePijp, you must visit the daily markets, but also stop at Bakken met Passie. My husband and I literally visited daily for the delicate and delicious mini lemon cake loaves and fresh baked everything from cheese sticks to focaccia.

EXPERIENCE: Coffee Shops are, of course, places in Amsterdam that legally sell marijuana. You can experience different strains of the potent botanical in any part of the city, from posh upscale shops to a more young and clubby vibe. Partake, and then go on a leisurely walk, have deep talks, laugh, or hit Bakken met Passie for cake.

The Red Light District gets its name from the lights outside of windows where prostitutes present their wares. The streets of this area are narrow and dark and with just enough bite to be adventurous. There’s always something to see, whether it’s a live sex show, or just for “inspiration”.

The Bijlmer area, which is about 30 minutes outside of the city, houses many of the African and Surinamese communities who were colonized by the Dutch. Experience a “hood” that boasts vibrant foods, markets and plenty people of color, for a different kind of day trip than The Hague.

The reasonably priced Hotel Ambassade is set in ten 17th Century buildings in the aristocratic Herengracht district, where luxury shopping, the canal side flower market, diamond merchants and antique shops are literally steps away. One of the coolest parts of the hotel is Koan Float, a massage center which features “floaten”, weightless floating in a salt-water chamber, a unique relaxation technique. Other fun things at the Ambassade include bicycle rentals, and a sexy Champagne breakfast for two. ambassade-hotel.nl | koanfloat.nl
Sofitel Legend

A GRAND TIME

We had the distinct pleasure of staying at the Sofitel Legend The Grand Amsterdam, the only Sofitel in Europe to be given the muchcoveted title of Legend, one of only seven in the world. Perched right at the lips of the Red Light District, the Grand sits on a quiet street between two canals. The former 15th century monastery has 177 rooms and 52 suites, and used to be a favorite haunt of Michael Jackson—appropriately, as the Grand is worthy of superstars. The French-acculturated hotel’s service is impeccable, from the personal butler, to the fabulous doorman adorned in tails and top hat. The semi-private courtyard had living art scattered throughout it— beautiful tiled benches made from recovering addicts, speaking to both the Dutch’s love affair with art, as well as their tolerance.

The rooms and suites here are, in a word, majestic. Bathed in light, each premium room boasts a courtyard, canal or garden view and “name brand” amenities (Hermes bathroom products, Bose DVD players and Philips flat screens). The ceilings over the beds are illuminated with dots of lights to emluate sparkling stars after the lights go out. Each bathroom is fitted with sunken tub, Jacuzzi, and second flat screen above it, and the shower room comes with a Hammam (steam bath) and glorious water falling from the ceiling in uniform rivets. The Sofitel Grand has won many interior design awards and has a Spa, Fitness Room, and popular seafood restaurant, Bridges at guests disposal.

Not only Honeymoon worthy, the Grand is also a popular wedding venue. The reigning monarch of the Netherlands, Queen Beatrix, and Claus von Amsberg married here in 1966. There is also the more intimate wedding chamber (pictured left), a glorious jeweled box for nuptials (interestingly, in Dutch weddings the bride and groom are seated), in the colors of olive green, turquoise, and purple with accents of orange and gold. The entire room was designed and painted by Chris Lebeau (1878-1945), including luminous frescos on the walls and ceilings, and stained glass windows. Each wall is fraught with symbolism and tells a story of love, marriage and family. The chamber opens up to a lovely courtyard for an intimate, sophisticated reception. sofitel-legend.com

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