Chef Roblé Ali is a simple kind of guy with a discerning palate. Given the choice, he prefers street food to Michelin-rated cuisine. He’d rather cook with your grandma than step into the kitchen of a top chef. And best believe he washes down nearly every meal with an ice-cold Coca-Cola Classic.
Ali is such a fan of Coke that he can remember the first time he drank one as child. He thanks his grandfather for introducing him to the fizzy sweet refreshment, and spurring his interest in cuisine. Grandad, Ali says, could burn too.
There’s no doubt the chef who thinks of himself more as a caterer is inspired a great deal by street food and has aptly named his Brooklyn restaurant Streets. The tagline for the eatery is: “Your passport to culinary adventure.” The menu truly encompasses the meals Ali has enjoyed on his international travels and the cooking techniques he’s learned from street vendors and the grandmothers and aunts of friends.
I spoke with Ali about his love of Coca-Cola and memorabilia collection, why partnering with the brand was a no-brainer, how street food became acceptable and popular, the other factors that influence his cuisine, and which culinary trends he sees on the horizon.
UPTOWN: Tell us a little about your heritage and how that influences your cuisine.
Roblé Ali: OK, well, I’ve got a few different kinds of Black in me. My father, he’s from East Africa. He’s from Somalia. We’re on the “no-fly list” right now which kind of sucks, but whatever.
U: How do you feel about that?
RA: Um, I can see where people are coming from when they want to do this, but I think it’s pointless and it doesn’t really get to the root of the problem. I’ll say that. If I was President, I wouldn’t have done that. I would go to the root of the problem. It’s just disrupting things. It’s breaking up families. It’s angering people. People are losing jobs. It’s not going to make us safer. It makes people mentally safer who aren’t looking at the real root problem of things. And, you know, that happens with a lot of stuff. Anyway, enough with politics. I told myself I wouldn’t talk about politics.
U: I had to ask, though.
RA: Yeah, for sure.
So my mom is African-American. She’s from Philly. I grew up between Brooklyn, New York and Houston, Texas. I spent a lot of years down there. So I got East African roots that give me an inspiration for my food. I have the South, which you have your soul food, you have cajun creole. The barbecue culture in Texas is huge. I love barbecuing! My favorite way to cook anything is over flames. I want to open a restaurant one day where there’s no gas; I want to cook everything over wood. And then there’s my travels. Over the last five years, I’ve been traveling a lot. My jobs have been taking me all over the place. Whenever I go somewhere for a job — if it’s a far enough place — I try to stay a good amount of time. I don’t want to go all the way to Jamaica or I was just off the coast of Zimbabwe in Zanzibar, and I stayed an extra week just so I can meet the people, eat the food, and learn the culture, and bring it back home.
U: Was there anything specific from Zanzibar that you know you’re going to incorporate into your cuisine, or anything you brought back figuratively and physically?
RA: Absolutely, but the thing is this … this is the thing I found out out there that wouldn’t be entertaining to anyone but me: They have a great culture of grilling on the street. There’s this wood that they use, and it’ll cost me a fortune to have that wood here just so I can just burn it up. It’s burning money. There’s nothing that’s a practical use thing that I got from there food-wise, but the culture, the people, I mean that’s something I’ll value for the rest of my life. I want to re-visit there maybe when I get married and have kids and stuff. That would be a nice place to bring a family.
U: Tell us about the cuisine at your restaurant Streets, and why you chose Brooklyn for your first restaurant. Conventional thinking would be, “Oh, I have to open in Manhattan first.”
RA: Well, Streets is a culmination of my travels and experiences that I can practically and actually do in Brooklyn. There are somethings that we’re going to do even better. Speaking of wood, I learned so much in Jamaica, just the whole jerk culture, jerk chicken, jerk pork. There’s a guy making jerk duck. He made it whole; he didn’t even take the innards out. Everything was still in it. Incredible! There’s a farm-to-table restaurant up in Blue Mountains … It’s called Eat Cafe or something like that. It sounds corny but it’s beautiful. Everything they cook there, they grow there — all the veggies, all the animals. So I took the jerk pork that I had there, and that’s on the menu at Streets.
Ah, Brazil. I’ve been to Brazil more than any other foreign country, except for maybe Canada … And one of the great things I’ve had there is kind of a seafood stew, similar to, like, a seafood gumbo or like a California-style Cioppino. They call it Mariscada, and don’t quote me on this, but I believe it translates to catch of the day in Portuguese.
U: So there can be any seafood in there?
RA: Yeah, it’s whatever seafood that was brought in. It could be some clams, some mussels, some fish. You know, they chop it up with some coconut milk, some palm oils, some pepper, some onions, and it’s an amazing thing. That’s been on the menu since day one. Right now, my favorite thing I’ve had there is called — you got me talking about food so I’m going to talk too much — Moqueca. It’s in-cred-ible! You can make it with anything. I’ve had it with crab, chicken, shrimp, lobster, you name it. And it’s the same thing; a lot of their dishes start out with peppers and onion, and their go-to oil is palm oil. They use it for everything. It’s everywhere. And coconut milk. There’s no coconut milk in cans there. I learned this from a grandmother. Like she cracked open a coconut and had me shave it out, and then she blended it up. I learned how to make coconut milk there; it was awesome.
So my point is, these are things that I’ve learned from places that I’ve gone, and I’ve learned on the streets just from observation, and more than anything, I’ve learned by cooking with grandmothers. Grandmothers are the best cooks on the face of the Earth. Wherever I go, if I know somebody local there who’s one of my friends, I’m like, “Hey, you have a grandma or an auntie or somebody that can cook? I would love to come and cook with them.” And they always invite me. They’ll be like, “Hey, he’s this big chef in the U.S.” And I always get a chance to cook.
U: Do you prefer to observe the local people eating their cuisine, than say going to a five-star restaurant?
RA: Forget about that, I can do that stuff anytime. If I’m going to go to a five-star restaurant, I’m in New York. I get those opportunities all the time. I just did a job and I got to eat at Todd English’s restaurant with Todd English. You know, those things happen for me. It’s free, but the richest, most delicious foods are on the street and there in people’s homes, in my opinion.
U: You grew up in Brooklyn, right?
RA: I was born in Poughkeepsie, but my New York experience has been about 30 percent Poughkeepsie, 60 percent New York City — Brooklyn. You asked me why I didn’t open in Manhattan. First and foremost, I’m a caterer. I started my catering company in 2010/2011, and then I started to make a name for myself as a chef … I had people knocking my door down to open a restaurant in Manhattan, but I felt it was my duty as a Brooklynite to open my first restaurant in Brooklyn. There was no way I was opening in Manhattan first. No. Way. And you know what? I’d rather just be in Brooklyn. I love Brooklyn. I’m about to open a new restaurant here in a few months. I don’t want to go to Manhattan everyday. I go to Manhattan when I have to go to Manhattan, or if I’m going to like a nightclub or something like that. I go to Manhattan for business, and now that we have an Apple store in Brooklyn, there are less reasons to go to Manhattan.
U: I remember back in the day, taking my life in my hands if I ate a street dog or a shish kebab — even though I did anyway. Now all of that has changed. Why do you think street food is so popular now?
RA: Well, there’s always trends in food, you know, and I think the powers that be, you know, the TV networks, the magazines, and PR companies, they’re like, “Hey, what’s the next thing? We have to think something up. We need to sort of find something cool that we haven’t thought about.” Well it’s been in front of you the whole time — street food. Somebody somewhere and I think it started a movement. I wasn’t following any trends. I can only think of one other street food restaurant that had ever opened in the whole of New York City, all five boroughs, before mine. And that restaurant opened like 10 years ago. Now you have Vandal. Bourdain is doing this enormous street food … I hear this is what it’s going to be … but he’s doing this big thing on the Westside, like a street food market. That’s hot, but you know, two years ago or three years ago when I was working on this, street food wasn’t hot then. Also, I would give a lot of credit to Los Angeles and the city of Austin for giving freedom to mobile restaurants and food trucks. The food trucks are what started people thinking about eating outside of a restaurant.
U: And making foods that are easy to handle while walking or not sitting at a table?
RA: Yeah, you go down to South X Southwest, which is coming up in March, in-cred-ible street food! Incredible! There’s a truck that’s dedicated just to the Detroit-style pan pizza. You get that, get a Coke — and I’m not saying that because I’m on the phone with Coke. I drink Coke with pretty much everything that’s not breakfast. Like all the time. But a slice of that deep-dish pizza and you wash it down with a Coke, fuhgeddaboutit. I’ve had a better cheesesteak at South X Southwest than I’ve ever had in Philadelphia. My mom’s from Philadelphia. I know Philadelphia, and I know a good cheesesteak.
[Images: Coca-Cola]
U: Speaking of Coca-Cola, what are the details of your partnership? Why was it a good fit for you?
RA: It’s a good fit for me because I’m a genuine fan of Coca-Cola. I always have been my whole life. I just like Coke. I grew up drinking it. I think the first one I ever had was with my grandpa in Poughkeepsie, sitting with him listening to the Yankees game on the radio. He would listen to all the Yankee games and I’d sit out there with him, eat snacks, and have a Coke. He was old school; he’d be eating pickled pigs feet — I never got into that. But yeah, a pig’s foot, that’s kind of crazy. But yeah, we’d chill out outside and he was like the coolest guy ever. And he was also a chef, by the way, which I know that influenced my career and my love of food.
I collect Coca-Cola things. I have bottles from all over the world. Today at 10 o’clock a.m., my boy came back from Uruguay. He was on his way to work and he stopped by my house, and he brought me a Coke bottle from Uruguay to add to my collection. Today!
U: How many different countries do you think you have?
RA: Uh, let me look. Let me go check right now because I have them all laid out because I’m moving stuff around. I have … Dubai, United Arab Emirates. I have Egypt. I have Mexico, which is pretty easy but I actually got it in Mexico. I have Japan.
U: You didn’t get the Mexican Coke bottle in Manhattan?
RA: Yeah, I got a Mexican Coke in Mexico. OK, here’s the Uruguay one I got today. I have … What are you? Oh, I have one from the Brazil Olympics in Brazil, and it’s a golden bottle — Coke Zero. What are you? Oh, this is a Brazilian one. I think I have a couple of those. I have another Brazilian one, but this one is a can and it has my last name on it because I didn’t have one with my first name on it. But they had one that had “Ali” on it … I have France, Jamaica, and of course, I have Zanzibar. I think I have more somewhere else, but that’s just what was in this little case.
U: That’s quite a bit of a collection though.
RA: I have more; I just don’t know where they are right now because I’m unpacking.
U: What are some of the details of the partnership?
RA: Well, it’s a budding partnership. We just started working together. My whole career I’ve been like, “Man, I can’t wait until one day when Coke calls me so I can work with them.” We just started a few months ago; we’re just getting into it. We did some work over the last couple of days shooting some film. I’m not sure how it’s going to be used, but I know it’s going to be good because I saw it. Hopefully, we do it all. I’m not exactly sure, but I have a great feeling this is going to be a good, long relationship. I’m going to keep drinking Coke. It makes a lot of sense for us to work together. I mean, what goes better with Coke than food? Coke, food, makes sense. They just balance each other out well.
U: It sounds like a brand ambassadorship that we’ll get to know a little ways in the future.
RA: I would just put it as I’m a guy that likes Coke that got to work with Coke. i’m just happy to here.
I’ve got offers to do all kinds of stuff that I didn’t believe in. I’ve had fast food companies put enormous checks in front of my face, but I don’t eat a lot of fast food. It isn’t me, so I don’t sign on to do anything that I don’t believe in, don’t actually like, or don’t actually consume. I consume copious amounts of Coca-Cola. There’s always Coke in my fridge. That’s my little thing. I drink Coke and I drink water. And a little bit of beer every now and then.
U: Switching back to food. I know you don’t follow trends, but is there anything on the horizon that you think is going to be the next big thing?
RA: There are two things that I see coming up. I think South America is going to really pop in America. South American cuisine. Argentina, Chile, Brazil, Uruguay, Paraguay … Oh, I have a Costa Rican Coke too … I would look out for that, and then I would look out for some Pan-Caribbean stuff, outside of the normal stuff we get. When people think Caribbean food, they think Jamaica and that’s it. There’s so much more go on there. Haiti. St. Croix, I had some amazing food there. The chef, his name is Digby [Stridiron] … He has a restaurant [Balter] down there, fuhgeddaboutit. It blew me away, blew me away.
U: What was a favorite dish, if you can remember?
RA: It was a steak and it had some kind of like root vegetable that I had never had. It was similar to malanga, like a potato meets a banana. Or like a potato meets a plantain. He had that pureed up and some local greens. It was simple. It was like steak and potatoes, but it wasn’t potatoes; it was this other root vegetable. It was awesome! And it was still sizzling when it came out. The steak had like bubbles popping off it. It was awesome! Had that with a Coke too. I sure did.
U: Now, are you a Coke Classic person or do you drink any of the other iterations?
RA: Once I like something, I stick with it. I’m a very kind of a loyal person to things I like. I’ve tried all the different Cokes. I just like Coca-Cola Classic. That’s just what I do. I tried the new one they have too. It’s called Coke Life. I think what they’re doing is mixing in stevia, so it’s cane sugar and stevia. The stevia brings the calorie count down. So you can go 50/50 and have an equal or near equal amount of sweetness, and you’re cutting your calorie count in half. So I tried that one and it’s good. It’s actually really good … I’m endorsing it. And I have a very sensitive palate, very sensitive taste buds, like extremely. I could do a blind taste test, and you could put 30 colas in front of me, and I can pick Coca-Cola out, easily. I would drink it. But I’m a Coca-Cola Classic guy.
[Image: Coca-Cola]